The size and fit guide
When you start sewing, choosing your size can be a real headache. How do I choose my size from the size chart? What if I'm between sizes? How do I take my measurements correctly? The size on the size chart doesn't match what I usually buy in stores; what should I do? How do I read the finished garment measurements chart? How do I shorten or lengthen a garment?
In this article, I will help you understand how to use the size chart to choose the most suitable size and guide you in making a custom garment if you are between sizes.
Size chart in centimeters (centimeters)
Size chart in inches (inches)
All patterns are designed for a height of 168 cm (66.14 inches).
How do I take my measurements?
Using a tape measure, take the following measurements:
- Your bust circumference: Place your tape measure at the fullest part of your bust, passing over the apex of your breasts. Make sure it is straight across your back.
- Your waist circumference: Place your tape measure at the narrowest point, parallel to the floor, being careful not to pull the tape tight.
- Your hip circumference: Place your tape measure at the fullest part of your hips.
Compare the measurements you've taken with the size chart above and choose your size by selecting the number greater than or equal to your measurement.
I am between sizes, what should I do?
It is relatively rare for your bust, waist, and hip measurements to all correspond to a single size. If this is your case, don't panic. We will look together at how to proceed depending on the garment you are sewing.
Firstly, it's important to know that each instruction booklet that accompanies my sewing patterns has a dedicated chapter on adjustments. This chapter explains how to make the necessary modifications to create a perfectly custom garment.
Example diagram: Waist circumference in size 38 and hip circumference in size 40. (excerpt from Agathe skort instruction booklet)
It's important to know that, depending on the garment being sewn, adjustments are not always necessary. For example, if the garment is fitted at the bust and then flares out, you simply need to choose the size that corresponds to your bust measurement. This is where the finished garment measurements chart is useful: it allows you to see the final ease of the garment to better choose your size.
How do I alter the length of my garment?
All my patterns are designed for a height of 168 cm (66.14 inches). If you wish to alter the length of your garment to perfectly fit your body, you will need to add or remove the desired height at the adjustment lines of the different pieces.
Excerpt from the instruction booklet for the Céline shirt.
Be careful not to remove centimeters from the width so as not to undersize the pattern, and remember to retrace any markings that might have been shifted (buttons and buttonholes, for example).
If you are making a significant length alteration, I recommend making a toile (a prototype in inexpensive fabric) to check that the proportions suit you before cutting into your final fabric.
If you're unsure about the ideal length, always start by sewing a garment longer than necessary. You can easily adjust it by trimming the excess or modifying the hem during the final steps.
How does the finished garment measurements chart work?
In some sewing patterns, you may find what is called the finished garment measurements chart. This corresponds to the final measurements of the garment once you have finished sewing it. It is calculated by adding the initial measurement chart to the ease available in the garment.
This chart provides an idea of the ease available in the garment to help you choose which size to sew. Ease is essential to feel comfortable in your garment and be able to close it. A minimum ease of 4 cm (1.5 inches) is necessary around the bust and hips, and 2 cm (0.75 inches) around the waist (for a fitted garment such as close-fitting trousers or a dress).
Some finished garment measurement charts show values much higher than the initial measurement chart. This is the case for garments with an oversized cut or where a part of the garment is flared (for example, a dress fitted at the waist but with a gathered skirt).
In other cases, the finished garment measurements are lower than the initial measurement chart. This happens with close-fitting garments sewn in stretch fabric. The stretchability of the fabric allows for a close-fitting and comfortable garment where ease is not necessary.
The size on the size guide doesn't match what I usually buy in stores.
It's important to know that every brand has its own size chart. In the same way, there are often large discrepancies between the size guides of different countries (for example, Germans are known to size larger than the French).
In the interest of inclusivity, my size range is available from 32 to 50. Unfortunately, I do not offer my patterns beyond size 50 because it requires specific adjustments for which I do not have the expertise.
My size chart corresponds to a couture house size guide. It is based on measurements generally found on a woman with a height of 168 cm. It's possible that you may need to sew a size 42 when you usually buy clothes in size 40 commercially. This is a comment I have received on several occasions. My wish was not to modify this size chart as it is used by most independent sewing pattern brands. It therefore ensures uniformity in the market. Furthermore, the bases I work with depend on this size guide. It is therefore natural for me not to modify it to avoid errors.
So don't worry, and remember it's just a number!
